What should I check in the first year after installation?

At 6 months: clean tracks and hardware, check weep holes are clear, inspect exterior sealant for cracks or voids. At 12 months: same inspection plus test all operable hardware (operators, locks, balances). Report anything that looks off within 30 days of noticing it — early is always easier to address than late.

What are the seven things to confirm at the final walkthrough?

Clear weep holes, full operation of every window, inspection scheduled, warranty registrations confirmed, interior trim flush and set, exterior sealant continuous with no voids, and stucco patch texture matching the field.

How-To & Process

What to Expect During Window Installation Day (Hour by Hour)

By Israel AquinoMarch 20, 20268 min read

TL;DR

A standard window opening takes 45–90 minutes from tear-out to sealed and trimmed. For a 12-window LA home, expect 2–3 install days. The sequence: crew protects your floors and furniture, removes the old unit, preps and flashes the rough opening, sets and anchors the new window, seals everything same-day, then walks you through every operable unit before they leave. Red flags include foam-only seals with no backer rod, no photos of the rough opening before the new window goes in, and installers who don't demonstrate operation at the end.

Most homeowners have never watched a window get replaced. The process is faster than you'd expect — a standard opening takes 45–90 minutes — and more methodical than it looks. Understanding the sequence helps you know what's normal, what's a red flag, and when to ask questions.

On a 12-window whole-home job in Los Angeles, we typically plan 2–3 install days depending on opening sizes, second-story count, and whether any full-frame replacements require stucco patching. The permit is already in hand before day one starts. This guide walks through every phase of a well-run install day so you know exactly what to expect — and what to push back on if something feels off.

Install day from first truck to last handshake

The sequence on install day.

Every opening follows this same six-step cycle. A rushed crew skips steps 03 and 05. A good crew documents every one.

Crew arrival & protection

Removal

Rough opening prep

Window set & anchor

Seal & weatherproof

Cleanup & walkthrough

Before the crew shows up

What you should do before the crew arrives.

1
Clear a 4-foot perimeter inside each window
Move furniture, plants, lamps, and anything breakable away from every opening that's being replaced. The crew will cover what remains with drop cloths, but it's faster and safer if the zone is already clear when they arrive.
2
Remove window treatments and hardware
Take down curtains, blinds, rods, and any decorative hardware from every window being replaced. Leaving this for the crew adds time to the job and risks damage to finishes that aren't covered under the install warranty.
3
Make sure parking is available for the crew truck
We need driveway or curb access close to the house for the work vehicle and material staging. If your street requires permits for oversized vehicles, let us know during scheduling and we'll handle it.
4
Flag any known rot or water damage before tear-out
If you've noticed soft sills, discolored drywall below a window, or past leak history, tell the foreman before the first window comes out. It won't change the base scope price, but it lets us pre-stage repair materials and avoid a stop-work situation mid-day.
5
Plan to be home for the first 30 minutes and the final walkthrough
You don't need to be present all day, but we want you there when we start — to confirm the work order and point out any specific concerns — and at the end, to walk every window before you sign off. Middle-of-day presence is optional.
6
Secure pets
The crew will be moving between the interior and exterior of your home throughout the day with the front and back doors frequently open. Crate or confine dogs and cats to a room that doesn't have windows being replaced.

Quality vs rushed — how to tell the difference

What a good install looks like vs a rushed one.

A quality install is documented. Before the new window goes in, you should be able to ask the installer to show you photos of the rough opening — the flashing membrane, the sill slope, any rot that was found. We take these photos on every opening, every time. They go into your job file, and we provide copies on request. If an installer won't show you the rough opening before covering it with the new window, that's not a minor procedural difference — it's the difference between a 25-year install and a callback in three years when the sill pan fails.

A quality install is laser-square. Every opening gets a laser level check after anchoring, before sealant. We're checking that the window is plumb, level, and square in all three axes — a window that's shimmed plumb but not square will bind on the locking mechanism within a few seasons as the shims compress. A quality installer also clears weep holes as a separate step after sealing, because it's easy for foam or sealant overspray to block the drainage channels that keep water out of the frame cavity.

A quality install uses backer rod. This is the detail that separates a real weatherproofing job from a caulk job. Backer rod (a foam rope installed in the joint before sealant) gives the sealant a controlled depth and backing surface so it compresses correctly and lasts 15–20 years instead of 4–6. Foam-only sealing — spraying expanding foam into the joint and calling it done — looks fine on day one and fails when the foam dries, shrinks, and cracks. Interior trim is also re-set flush on a quality job, not just re-nailed at whatever angle the old trim came off at.

A rushed install skips the photos, skips the backer rod, re-nails trim without checking level, and leaves before demonstrating that every window operates. The shortcuts are invisible on day one. They show up as air infiltration in year two, a failed seal in year four, and a window that won't lock in year six.

After the crew leaves

What happens after the crew leaves.

The permit inspection is the first thing that happens after install. LADBS books inspections 3–7 business days out from the request, which we file the same evening as install completion. We meet the inspector on-site — you do not need to be home. The inspector checks anchor spacing, flashing integration, glazing compliance (tempered glass in required locations, Low-E spec per Title 24), and operable hardware. If any item requires correction, we handle the re-call on our schedule and our cost.

Manufacturer warranty registration is filed within 48 hours of install completion. Most manufacturers (Milgard, Marvin, Anlin, Pella) require registration within a specific window of install date for the lifetime warranty to activate — we handle this as part of our standard close-out process and send you confirmation with the registration numbers. Keep those numbers with your home records.

Any punch-list items identified during the final walkthrough — a trim piece that needs one more coat of caulk, a tilt-in latch that needs adjustment, exterior stucco texture that needs blending — are addressed within 10 business days of install completion. We track these in our job management system and confirm close-out with you by text or email. If something surfaces after that (a seal that looks off after the first rain, hardware that starts to bind), call us — the install warranty covers labor and materials for the life of the window.

Know what to watch for

Red flags on install day.

1
Crew starts exterior cuts before 8:00am
LA Municipal Code Section 41.40 restricts construction noise before 7:00am on weekdays and before 8:00am on weekends, but exterior window cuts with a reciprocating saw consistently run afoul of neighbor complaints before 8:00am regardless of the day. If a crew fires up a saw on your exterior at 7:15am, they're either unaware of the ordinance or don't care — neither is a good sign for the quality of the rest of the work.
2
No photos taken before the new window is set
If the rough opening is covered up without documentation, there's no record of what flashing was or wasn't applied, whether rot was present, or what the sill condition was before install. This protects the installer, not you. Ask to see the photos before the window goes in — a good crew will have them ready.
3
Foam-only air seal with no backer rod
Expanding foam is not an exterior weatherproof seal. It's appropriate for interior gaps and interior air sealing. On the exterior joint between the window frame and the rough opening, foam-only application is a 4–6 year solution that looks identical to a proper backer-rod-and-sealant job for the first year or two. Ask specifically what's going in the exterior joint before they seal it.
4
Installer asks you to hold trim in place while they nail
This means they're working alone on a two-person task and are improvising. Trim installation on windows requires one person to hold and one to fasten — otherwise the trim shifts under the nail strike and you get a gap at the reveal. If you find yourself being recruited as unpaid labor, that's a workflow problem that's going to show in the finished product.
5
No one demonstrates window operation before leaving
Every window should be opened, closed, locked, and (if applicable) tilted in before the crew leaves. If the installer packs up and heads for the door without walking you through operation, stop them. Operation issues — a sash that won't lock, a tilt-in that binds — are trivial to fix on install day and expensive to diagnose on a callback.

What people ask

Questions we get before every install day.

01Do I need to be home all day during installation?

No. We ask that you're present for the first 30 minutes (to confirm the work order and flag any last-minute concerns) and for the final walkthrough (to operate every window and sign the completion sheet). In between, you can be at work, running errands, or anywhere else. We'll text you when we're 30 minutes from wrapping so you can head back.

02Will there be dust inside the house?

Some, yes — mostly drywall or plaster dust when we cut out old windows that are set in plaster frames, and general construction dust from the rough opening. We use floor protection and try to keep interior penetration of exterior dust to a minimum. Plan to run a vacuum on the floors near each opening after we leave. It's not a full-room renovation level of dust, but it's more than zero.

03What if it rains during installation?

We monitor the forecast and won't start a full-frame replacement on a day with more than 30% precipitation probability — an open rough opening in a stucco wall and a sudden rain is a real water-intrusion risk. Retrofit installs are less sensitive since the old frame stays in place until the new unit is ready to drop in. If weather turns unexpectedly mid-job, we cover open openings with temporary poly sheeting and return the next dry morning. We do not charge for weather delays.

04How long until I can paint the exterior after installation?

Sealant cure time is 24–48 hours for a skin cure and 7–14 days for full depth cure, depending on the product and the LA ambient humidity. We recommend waiting at least 7 days before applying paint over sealant on the exterior. Stucco patching (on full-frame jobs) needs the same curing period before paint — and on color-coat stucco, you'll want a professional painter for the texture blend rather than DIY brushwork, since the texture match is more critical than the color match.

05What if the new window doesn't fit?

Doesn't happen on a properly measured job — we measure every opening twice before ordering. But if a manufactured unit arrives with a defect or dimension error, we do not install it and request a replacement at no charge to you. Install is rescheduled once the correct unit arrives. The delay is on the manufacturer's timeline, not ours, but we manage the logistics so you don't have to. Open rough openings are boarded and weather-protected while we wait.

06Will the crew clean up after themselves?

Yes. We remove all window debris, cardboard packaging, and old window units as part of the job. Interior and exterior surfaces within the work area are left broom-clean. Stucco patching and painting (if full-frame) are included in the scope — we don't leave raw patched stucco. If you have carpet or hardwood close to the work area, we use drop cloths and floor runners throughout the install day.

07What if it rains during my install window?

We monitor the forecast and will call the night before to reschedule if there's more than 30% precipitation probability. We never leave an opening unprotected overnight — if a crew starts on a window and weather moves in, we fit the new unit or install a weatherproof sheathing and tape before leaving. Rain-delay rescheduling is written into your contract; we don't charge any mobilization fee for weather moves.

What to do in the weeks after installation

Aftercare: the first 30 days and the first year.

The first 48 hours: don't apply paint or caulk over the new sealant beads before 24 hours have passed for skin cure, and wait 7 days for full-depth cure before painting. Don't pressure-wash the exterior near the new windows for at least two weeks — high-pressure water against fresh sealant can cause adhesion failure at the joint edges.

The first 30 days: open and close all operable windows daily for the first two weeks. This allows the weatherstrip to seat fully and lets the frame settle into the rough opening. If any window stiffens or binds within the first 30 days, call us — early binding is usually a shimming issue that's trivial to fix while the job is fresh.

The first LA rain: this is the real test of the flashing and sealant. After the first significant rainfall, walk every window from inside and check for moisture at the sill, head, and jambs. Check the exterior for sealant pulling away from the frame. If anything looks wrong, photograph it and contact us within 24 hours. Water infiltration caught in the first season is a minor repair; left unaddressed for two seasons it can require significant remediation.

The first year: clean tracks and hardware at the 6-month mark with mild soap and water and a light silicone lubricant on the hardware. Avoid petroleum-based lubricants on vinyl — they degrade gasket material. Check weep holes at the bottom exterior of each window to ensure they haven't been blocked by paint, debris, or foam. Blocked weep holes are how water backs up into the sill track.

Questions to ask at the final walkthrough

Seven things to confirm before you sign the completion sheet.

1
Have all weep holes been cleared?
Run a thin tool along the weep channels at the bottom exterior of each window. They should be open, not blocked with foam or sealant overspray. A blocked weep hole is invisible now and becomes a water-damage problem in the next rainy season.
2
Has each window been operated in every mode?
Open, close, lock, tilt-in (if applicable) — do every one. A binding latch or a sash that doesn't fully close is trivial on install day and costly on a callback. The walkthrough is your window to get corrections for free.
3
Has the permit inspection been scheduled?
Ask the crew lead to confirm when the final inspection request was filed and when the inspection is scheduled. If the inspector hasn't been called by end of install day, escalate to the office. The permit record is your legal protection.
4
Have manufacturer warranty registrations been filed?
Milgard, Anlin, Marvin, and Pella require registration within 30–60 days of install for the lifetime warranty to activate. Confirm registrations will be filed within 48 hours and that you'll receive confirmation with registration numbers.
5
Is all interior trim flush and properly set?
Check the reveal — the gap between the window frame and the trim casing — on every window. It should be consistent corner to corner. More than 1/8" variation is a trim-set problem that's easy to fix now and annoying to come back for.
6
Are all exterior sealant joints continuous with no voids?
Walk the exterior and inspect the sealant bead around each window. It should be continuous with no gaps at corners. Tool marks (the smooth finish from the installer pressing sealant into the joint) should be visible. Unfinished sealant sitting on top of the joint won't adhere correctly.
7
Does the stucco patch match the surrounding texture?
On full-frame replacements in stucco homes, the patch texture — not just color — should match the field. A smooth patch in a sand-finish field stands out at low angles of light. If it doesn't match, address it before the crew leaves.